Iorana! December 2016. Relaxing at Anakena Beach after 24 flight hours. From Helsinki to Miami, to Santiago, to Easter Island. I was 8years 11mo.
South Pacific: Easter Island, Chile
MOAI STATUES, BIRDMAN ERA, STREET DOGS AND TUNA STEAKS
There was a time before iPADs and APPs, Star Wars and Marvels. People had time and they carved arts. We were curious and went around Easter Island to learn about its history with Mr Roberto, an easterislander. He was our Moai guide and instructor for 4 days. Above, I am in Orongo Rapa Nui National Park, at Orongo Ceremonial Village which was important for yearly BirdMan competitions around 1760-1878. Islets behind me had the key role in BirdMan competitions. After all, this was a bird nesting island.
• Islet Motu Nui
• Islet Motu KaoKao
• Islet Motu Iti
Easter Island aka Rapa Nui aka Isla de Pascua of Chile is the most eastern island of Polynesia. Located 3500km off the west coast of Chile. Probably the most remote inhabited spot on earth. Flight connection was opened in 1967, Mataveri International Airport. First part of my flight was from Miami (over Cuba, Panama, Ecuador and Peru) to Santiago, Chile, 8 hours. Then transit to Easter Island 5,5h flight. In Mataveri International Airport we got flower lays around the neck, more flower lays waited us on beds at Hotel Ota'i. We learnt that island's electricity is produced by diesel generators beside the airport near the only town, Hanga Roa. Material and oil supplies were needed frequently.
• 800-1100 Polynesian settlers arrived by canoes and catamarans
• 1100-1680 Moai carving era, builders of rock
-- to connect ancestors' spirit, scare evil, symbol of power
• 1000 Hare Paenga houses, rock foundation, boat shape, 10 meters
• 1760-1878 BirdMan era, BirdMan selected yearly by competition
-- the living to contact the dead via human BirdMan
• 1722 Dutch admiral Jacob Roggeveen arrived Easter Sunday
-- naming it Easter Island. Sailors observed standing Moai
• 1774 Captain James Cook, English explorer arrived,
-- sailors observed conflicts, all Moai toppled down, 80% face down
• 1864 Christian era started, Roman Catholic missionaries arrived
• 1888 Treaty with Chile: friendship, protection, control
-- All Rapanui people to Hanga Roa, island leased to sheep farm
• 1960s Polynesian Rapanui people became Chilean citizens
• 2016 Population 6000 of whom 1500 Rapanui of Polynesian origin
• Languages: Spanish, Eastern Polynesian Rapanui
• The only town: Hanga Roa beside the airport, west coast
Four days around Easter Island. Guide Roberto gives us presentation.
Rano Raraku volcano, the source area of volcanic rock for Moai statues. Here are hundreds Moai statues quarried in the soft volcanic ash of Rano Raraku. Many Moai is gradually destroyed by erosion in the open.
Update: October 2022 grass fire, some damages at Rano Raraku area.
MOAI MATH
Around 1200 Moai statues made 1200-1500AD, about 800 left
• 1/2 of Moai statues, abt. 400 Moai
-- here at Rano Raraku volcano
• 1/4 of Moai statues installed and
-- standing around Easter Island
• 1/4 of Moai statues on their way
-- to intended locations, not standing
• Moai Hoa Hakananai'a in England
-- since 1869 in British Museum
Rano Raraku volcano is about 16km from Hanga Roa town. Moai statue site was active around 500 to 1000 years ago here on Rano Raraku volcano. These standing Moai statues were not meant to be transported to Ahu platforms but to stay here. Thousands of harder stone tools, toki, has been found. During the Moai era the tribes wanted to build bigger and bigger Moai.
Rano Raraku volcano, the Moai statue carving site. Standing Moai here, around 100, do not have pukao hats and their eyes were not hollowed out. They seem to look ocean, sky and around. To our understanding there were three phases for every Moai:
• Moai carving: team of up to 10 men, takes about one year
• Moai moving: slide, roll, walk, methods to intended location
• Moai refining: flipped to stand then finalised the carving
Rano Raraku volcano.
Left:
Ticket Office photo.
Moai excavations by Norwegian Thor Heyerdahl in summer 1986. Half of a Moai is underground. He linked Moai to Incas, just one theory.
Average Moai is 4 meters tall and weights 12 tons. Biggest Moai is 10 meters tall and 80 tons. Moai pukao hats are carved of reddish rock from Puna Pau volcanic center, can weight several tons.
Rano Raraku volcano, the Moai statue carving site. Horizontal carving. This Moai has face and body already carved but not carved off yet, it is still integrated part of Rano Raraku volcano. The largest incomplete Moai statue is called El Gigante aka FatBoy:
• Length 21 meters
• Weight estimated 270 tonnes
Rano Raraku volcano. Moai TukuTuri is the oldest Moai here. It is made of red scoria lava rock in Puna Pau near Hanga Roa town. Head structure different than other Moai. Short ears. Kneeling posture Tuku Riu was used by chorus members during Riu festivals. TukuTuri is a Riu singer. 950 meters behind me, near the ocean, is Ahu Tongariki 15-Moai Kings platform.
Ahu Tongariki 15-Moai Kings platform seen from Rano Raraku volcano, from Moai statue carving site, from kneeling Moai TukuTuri. Ahu means platform or altar, built strong to carry standing Moai. Ahu was a place for rituals.
Ahu Tongariki 15-Moai Kings platform. The largest Ahu platform. Moai statues stand back towards the ocean and facing Rano Raraku volcano. One Moai has pukao hat made in Puna Pau 12 km from here. Ahu Tongariki 15-Moai Kings face the sunset during summer solstice at midsummer, on the longest day of the year.
Ahu Tongariki 15-Moai Kings platform. See that Moai with pukao hat, the second from right! These are monolithic Moai, Easter Island style!
Ahu Tongariki 15-Moai Kings platform.
EARTHQUAKE, TSUNAMI 1960, RESTORATION
Chile, Valdivia earthquake 1960 of Richter 9.5 caused a major tsunami. It carried these 15 Moai statues towards inland, even hundreds of metres over the village field in front of them, towards Rano Raraku volcano.
NOTE: Long before 1960 tsunami some Moai were already toppled face down by the tribes. Ahu Tongariki 15-Moai statues were moved and restored. Re-erected on restored Ahu platform by Chilean project with Japanese heavy machinery in 1990s.
Ahu Tongariki 15-Moai platform faces this village field and 1km further Rano Raraku volcano. Moai statue carving area is on left side of Rano Raraku. Volcano's crater is one of three freshwater crater lakes in the island.
Ahu Tahai ceremonial complex with three Ahu. Boys stands back towards ocean like Moai behind them. In 1978 islander Sergio Rapu discovered that Moai had had eyes made of coral, making sense of the saying Moai being the living face of the ancestor.
• Left: Ahu Vai Uri 5-Moai platform
• Middle: Ahu Tahai, 1-Moai platform
• Right: Ahu Ko Te Riku, 1-Moai platform
-- with pukao and restored coral eyes
Ahu Tahai ceremonial complex. Street dogs disturbed visitors.
• Left: Ahu Tahai, 1-Moai platform
• Right: Ahu Vai Uri, platform for 5 Moai
Ahu a Kivi has a 7 Moai platform, each Moai around 5 meters tall and weighs 18 tons. This is an inland Ahu platform with Moai looking out towards the Pacific Ocean.
Ahu a Kivi 7-Moai platform looks towards the ocean, towards the point where sun sets during equinox: twice a year when day and night have equal duration. Located 10km northeast of Hanga Roa.
• Ahu a Kivi, platform for 7 Moai
Ahu a Kivi 7 Moai platform was restored in 1960s. Internet B/W photo.
Anakena Beach has white coral sand. Around 1100 years ago this was the landing place of Polynesian chief. He led two canoes of settlers to Easter Island. They came from far. They founded the first settlement to Rapa Nui. Easter Island had trees but became treeless as a result of complex events. Troubles, fighting tribes, maybe enemies eaten. Moai, then BirdMan cult. Now Anakena Beach has some palm trees, planted in the 1960s.
Anakena Beach. Restored 7-Moai Ahu NauNau platform standing backs towards Pacific Ocean and Anakena Beach. Four of its Moai has pukao hat. Nearby is 1-Moai platform Ahu Ature Huki standing back towards the ocean and looking at 7-Moai Ahu NauNau. Ahu Ature Huki was re-erected by Norwegian Thor Heyerdahl and the islanders.
• 7-Moai Ahu NauNau platform
• 1-Moai Ahu Ature Huki platform
Moai hats and rolling pukao! Puna Pau volcanic crater is the source for soft reddish lava rock hanihani, used for all Moai pukao hats. Around 100 pulao-hats were carved. From here the carved pukao, up to 13 tons, was rolled to Ahu Tongariki 15-Moai platform and to other Ahu platforms around the island. Instead of powerful UFOs, ramps were used to lift/roll pukao on top of Moai. Around 50 Moai, like Moai TukuTuri at Rano Raraku volcano, were made of Puna Pau reddish lava rock, right here.
Te Pito Kura. Not far from Anakena Beach at La Perouse Bay we went to 1-Moai platform Ahu Te Pito Kura. Its Moai was called Paro. With 10 meters and 80 tons, Paro is the biggest Moai ever moved and erected on Ahu platform. In 1838 Paro was knocked face down, broken at upper torso. Nearby was its pukao hat, from Puna Pau, weight around 10 tons.
• 1-Moai Ahu Te Pito Kura platform, Moai Paro face down
Te Pito Kura. Legendary magnetic high-iron oval stone called Ahu Te Pito Henua - Navel of the World. Original settlers brought it along from another Polynesian island.
Te Pito Kura. Sir-K and Sir-D DanDan.
Rano Kau Wetland crater at Orongo Ceremonial Village. The wall of fog.
Rano Kau Wetland crater was foggy and windy, we are at 324 meters. The crater has a lake and its own microclimate with unique flowers.
Rano Kau Wetland crater is only a few kilometres from Hanga Roa.
At Orongo Ceremonial Village (Birdman cult center) and Rano Kau Wetland crater. Behind us are three islets: Motu Nui, Motu KaoKao and Motu Iti.
South-west of Easter Island
-- Internet photo
BIRDMAN CULT
Birdman ceremony Tangata Manu was Easter Island's religion between the Moai era and the Christian era. Moai carving ended, wood ended, Birdman cult started. Many Moai statues got knocked face down in the process.
Every spring the annual Orongo BirdMan selection competition during 1760-1878. A representative of each clan, tribe, probably 2 to 10 tribes on the island. First to go down 250 meters of cliffs. Swim over km across the sea to Motu Nui islet. Find and pick the egg laid by manutara seabird. Place the egg to head holder, swim back, climb rocks up to Orongo. Don’t break that egg!
The first swimmer to return with a manutara's egg and successfully climb back up the cliff to Orongo Village would be the BirdMan for one year. Kind of triathlon rewarded with the leadership role to winner and his tribe. Movie Rapa-Nui from 1994 tells legends of Easter Island, the Long-ears and the Short-ears.
At Orongo Ceremonial Village near Rano Kau Wetland crater.
At Orongo Ceremonial Village near Rano Kau Wetland crater.
At Orongo Ceremonial Village near Rano Kau Wetland crater.
Ana Kai Tangata volcanic cliffs.
Ana Kai Tangata volcanic lava cave. Some call it Cannibal Cave (Man Eating Cave). We walked in and found strong volcanic shapes, lava flows. Painted figures of birds, probably hundreds of years old. Deeper inside the cave rocks had fallen from ceiling.
- Caves in Easter Island were used for living
Museo Antropologico P. Sebastian Englert: Moai and BirdMan info. Archaeological evidence, history, stories.
Mr Roberto, Mahinatur.cl, was our Moai and BirdMan guide and instructor for 4 days. He has Polynesian roots, born in Rapa Nui, Easter Island. As a child, in 1987, he witnessed Concorde aircraft from Tahiti landing to Easter Island's NASA-extended 3353 meters runway of Mataveri International Airport. Mr Roberto told us stories his grandpa had told him, experiences, and about Moai history. Mr Roberto took us to BirdMan places and showed us Moai platforms. In addition to all in this post we also studied:
• 1-Moai Ahu Tautira near Hanga Roa's football field
• 1-Moai Ahu Hotake near Hanga Roa's football field
• TeAra-O-TeAo BirdMan trail to Orongo
• Vivero Mataveri Otai Botanic Park
Moai Hoa Hakananai'a, Internet photo
MOAI HOA HAKANANAI'A
• Name means Stolen or Hidden Friend
• Made in 1200, height 2,13 metres
• Found in 1868 in standing position
-- face towards Rano Kau crater
-- back towards the sea in Orongo
• Taken in 1868, HMS Topaze to England
• Since 1869 in British Museum, London
Hanga Roa Plaza. King Atamu Tekena of Rapa Nui (Easter Island) and Officer Policarpo Toro Hurtado of Chile negotiated Rapa Nui to Chile, a treaty of 1888. Agreed that Chile administrates with cultural respect. Officially Easter Island is a province of Chile.
Near Anakena Beach we passed a roadside shelter which looked like a political demonstration. There are probably more Chilean tourism businesses than those operated by Rapanui people. Land ownership. Language and culture. Difficult issues.
Not a Moai. This is Hanga Roa art at Pea Beach (Playa Pea) near fishing port. We also saw Easter Island's Post Office, fire brigade, hospital, schools, markets, cemetery and a Santander Bank.
Hotel O'Tai, Hanga Roa town, Rapa Nui. Trees, garden and a pool.
- After 24 flight hours we saw Moai statues and BirdMan places
- We studied four days Moai, craters, caves, hills, beaches, museum
- We checked everywhere, turned every stone, no real "mystery"
- Easter Island was almost static, erosion eating Moai away
- We enjoyed volcanic views, hill shapes, emptiness, the ocean views
- We didn't enjoy street dogs in Hanga Roa
• We got our passports stamped in Hanga Roa Post Office
• Restaurant Haka Honu at Pea Beach, Hanga Roa: tuna steaks
• Eco Taina Rapa Nui Cafe: espressos and lattes
• Negativos: street dogs, mosquitos, internet problems
• Flight from Santiago to Easter Island, 5,5 hours by Latam
• Hotel Ota'i, Hanga Roa town, room 135, 4 nights
Island-Hopping World Tour
• Easter Island was a stop during our World Tour
• World Tour from December 10, 2016 to January 26, 2017
• Beginning of the tour I was 8 years 11mo old
• World not flat, we went to the left, arrived back from the right
• After 21 flight hours over Pacific Ocean the world feels still big
• Mosquito bites, street dogs but nothing serious
TOTAL 48 days including starting and ending days
Our World Tour route from right to left
World Tour Islands
From Helsinki to
1. The Bahamas, Nassau (via Miami, USA)
++ Hotel Atlantis Resort, waterpark, dolphins, scenery, quality
-- No problems
2. Easter Island, Chile (via Santiago)
++ Moai era, BirdMan era, nature, touring trips
-- Mosquitos, street dogs, Internet problems
3. Tahiti Island, Papeete, French Polynesia
++ Hotel InterContinental, views, pools, dinners, dance shows
-- Mosquitos
4. BoraBora Lagoon, French Polynesia (visited 3 BoraBora islands)
++ Lagoon, beach, mountain, service, shows, lagoon/jeep safaris
-- Mosquitos, main island street dogs and forest dogs
5. Rarotonga Lagoon, The Cook Islands (via Tahiti)
++ Muri beach, pool, jeep safari, lagoon, shows, jungle
-- Mosquitos, hot, beach dogs, pricing of breakfasts elements
6. Aitutaki Lagoon, The Cook Islands (visited 8 Aitutaki islands)
++ Hotel Pacific Resort, views, pool, dinners, lagoon cruise, shows
-- Mosquitos
7. New Zealand: Auckland, Rotorua, Tongariro, Wellington
++ Views, dinners, geologic, nature park, cafees, hotels
-- No problems
8. Bali Island, Amed, Indonesia (via Melbourne, Australia)
++ Views, friendly service, dinners, juices, jungle temple
-- Mosquitos, hot, angry monkeys
9. Singapore
++ Hotel Shangri-La, quality, service, pools, restaurants, Orchard Rd
-- No problems
Back to Helsinki
FLIGHTS
No.1 from Helsinki to Miami, 10,5h night flight, Finnair
No.2 from Miami to Nassau, 30mins, American Eagle
No.3 from Nassau back to Miami, 30mins, American Eagle
No.4 from Miami to Santiago, 8h night flight, Latam
No.5 from Santiago to Easter Island, 5,5hours, Latam
No.6 from Easter Island to Tahiti, 5hours, 5 time zones, Air Tahiti
No.7 from Tahiti to BoraBora, 50mins, Air Tahiti
No.8 from BoraBora back to Tahiti, 50mins, Air Tahiti
----- flight had a stop on Raiatea Lagoon, French Polynesia
No.9 from Tahiti to Rarotonga, 3hours, Air Tahiti
----- flight got a technical problem, back to Tahiti, 2nd try ok
No.10 from Rarotonga to Aitutaki, 50mins, Air Rarotonga
No.11 from Aitutaki back to Rarotonga, 50mins, Air Rarotonga
No.12 from Rarotonga to Auckland, 4,5h night flight, Air New Zealand
----- NZ car tour from Auckland to Wellington, around 800km
No.13 from Wellington to Melbourne, Australia, 4hours, Jetstar
No.14 from Melbourne to Bali, Indonesia, 5hours, Boeing 787, Jetstar
No.15 from Bali to Singapore, 3hours, Jetstar
No.16 from Singapore to Helsinki, 12h night flight, Finnair
TOTAL 16 flights, 65 flight hours, 48.000 kilometers
HOTELS
No.1 Miami - Hotel Element, rm 249, one night
No.2 Bahamas - Hotel Atlantis Resort, rm 8549, 4 nights
No.3 Easter Island - Hotel Ota'i, Hanga Roa, rm 135, 4 nights
No.4 Tahiti - Hotel InterContinental Resort, rm 180, 2 nights
No.5 BoraBora - Hotel Pearl Beach Resort & Spa, Bungalow No.50, 7 nights
No.6 Tahiti - Hotel InterContinental Resort, rm 386, one night
No.7 Rarotonga - Hotel Pacific Resort Rarotonga, rm 209, 4 nights
No.8 Aitutaki - Hotel Pacific Resort Aitutaki, Bungalow No.114, 3 nights
No.9 Rarotonga - Hotel Pacific Resort Rarotonga, rm 44, one night
No.10 Rotorua - Holiday Inn Hotel, rm 615, 3 nights
No.11 Tongariro - Hotel Chateau Tongariro, rm 121, one night
No.12 Wellington - Museum Art Hotel, rm 343, 5 nights
No.13 Bali - Hotel Griya Villas and Spa, Villa No.14, 3 nights
No.14 Singapore - Shangri-La Hotel Singapore, rm 683, 4 nights
TOTAL 14 hotels, 43 hotel nights, 4 night flights
SAFARIS, TOURS, MUSEUMS, POINTS OF INTEREST, SHOWS
• Bahamas Nassau Airport - Welcoming 3-man guitar band
• Bahamas hotel - Birthday drumming show during dinner
• Bahamas - Atlantis Aquaventure Water Park
• Bahamas - Dolphin Cay dolphin show and photos
• Bahamas village - Jazz band at a street restaurant
• Easter Island - Museo Antropologico P. Sebastian Englert
• Easter Island - Moai, BirdMan tours with Mr Roberto, 3,5 days
• Tahiti Airport - Welcoming Tahitian guitar and singing group
• Tahiti hotel - Polynesian Warrior Drum and Dance dinner show
• Tahiti hotel - Great views at Hotel InterContinental Resort
• BoraBora Christmas Eve - Polynesian Drum/Dance dinner show 1.
• BoraBora Christmas Day - Polynesian Drum/Dance dinner show 2.
• BoraBora - Shark-Feeding lagoon Safari with Captain Will
• BoraBora - Jeep Safari day with Mr Steve
• BoraBora - Kayaking trip to the edge of islet Motu Tevairoa
• Rarotonga Airport - Welcoming guitar music by an old man
• Rarotonga New Year - Polynesian Drum and Hip-shaking dinner
• Rarotonga - Jeep Safari day with Mr Chico
• Rarotonga - Trip to Punanga Nui Market near Avarua Beach
• Aitutaki hotel - Aitutaki trio, harmonic music during dinners
• Aitutaki hotel - Polynesian Warrior Drum and Dance dinner show
• Aitutaki - Lagoon Cruise Safari with Captain Fantastic Andrew
• Aitutaki - Bicycle trip from hotel passing Arutanga Harbour
• Rotorua - HoBbiToN Movie Village tour: Lord of Rings, The Hobbit
• Rotorua - Te Puia Park geothermal and Maori culture show
• Rotorua - Te Puia Park Maori singing, warrior dances, faces
• Rotorua - Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Park, geyser
• Lake Taupo - Huka Falls on Waikato River
• Tongariro National Park - Happy Valley, Whakapapa village
• Tongariro National Park - Ruapehu volcano, Tawhai Falls
• Waiouru - National Army Museum of New Zealand
• Wellington - Museum Te PaPa of New Zealand culture
• Wellington - Waterfront and Hikitia steam-driven crane boat
• Wellington - Cable Car Museum and Wellington Botanic Garden
• Wellington - Hippopotamus Restaurant in Museum Art Hotel
• Bali hotel - Band, movie music, popular olds, Beatles
• Bali - Pura Lempuyang Temple Safari and Mount Agung
• Bali - Tirta Gangga Water Palace Safari near Mount Agung
• Singapore - ArtScience Museum: NASA, A Human Adventure
TOTAL 38 experiences, over 30GB photos and video
GET-PREPARED FOR WORLD TOUR
• Vaccines: Hepatiitti-A; Hepatiitti-B; Tetanus
• Insurance: Persons; Things; Contact info
• VISA: ESTA.org for USA entry
• Medicine bag: Travel; Adult; Junior; Care things; Docs
• Hygiene bag: Dental; Shampoo/care; Combs; Scissors; Shaving
• Electronics: Phones; Cameras; iPad; Cables; Plugs; Loaders
• On-Travel: Clothes; Flight pillows; CabinBags; CargoBags
• Holiday clothes; Shirts and all
• Sunglasses; Sun hats; Sun oils
• Swimming: Snorkeling; Fins; RashGuards; Shoes
• Trip arrangement by Aventura, Helsinki
• Trip schedule and budget
• Trip process: Targets ➙ Flights ➙ Hotels ➙ Pickups ➙ Tours
• Trip documents: Tickets, Vouchers, Schedule, Contacts
• Other documents: Passports, Credit cards, Driving licences
• Principle: less to carry is better
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